San Miguel de Allende--Evening Breezes, Secret Gardens, and Mariachi Bands in Central Mexico

San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico, is a paradise. Surrounded by mountains in Central Mexico, the city was named for General Ignacio Allende, a national hero in the War of Mexican Independence. 

San Miguel is a world of festive rooftops and secret gardens. Cool evening breezes carry the lilt of mariachi bands to the tops of the roofs. Canopies of bougainvillea envelop charming colonial houses on cobblestone streets. The laughter of children fills the air as they play under the sculpted fig trees of the Jardin Principal (garden). It's never too hot, nor too cold. And above all else, the people are kind, generous, and humble. 

The "Balloon Man", The Pied Piper of the Jardin. Best Toys in Town!

Mariachi Musicians

After World War II, U.S. service veterans began a migration to San Miguel. These vets decided to study art under the GI Bill at schools in SMA, such as the Instituto Allende. It has been said the GI education dollars stretched further in Mexico.

In January, 1948, Life Magazine ran a story about this migration. By this time, SMA was being referred to as the "GI Paradise". As years passed even more North Americans were allured by the artistic offerings and inexpensive living in San Miguel.

Perhaps some are drawn to the magnificent doors of the city. It sounds crazy, but yes, doors. Lots of them.

When gazing down a street, the buildings appear modest with a texture of vividly colored stucco. But take a stroll down the street for a delightful surprise. Nearly every building has an exquisitely carved front door. Doors are usually of dark wood, such as mesquite, contrasting intensely with the warm gold and deep pinks of the structures. They're adorned with ornate hinges and unique doorknockers--brass frogs, gloved hands, gigantic rings.

If you find yourself with a sudden yen for avocados, or even a New York Yankees ball cap, there's a place you can get both. The Mercado de Artesanias (Folk Art Market) is chock-full of wonderful items to fill your suitcase. Here can be found one of the best selections (and probably some of the best prices) of Talavera Pottery. Talavera is colorful, hand-painted, usable pottery and tiles, produced in nearby Delores Hidalgo. The selection is overwhelming. Each piece is more beautiful than the next.

Talavera Pottery

  

Some are calling San Miguel the Aspen of Mexico, or comparing it to the likes of Santa Fe. Both are great places. But SMA isn't a copy of any other location. It possesses an all encompassing beauty, texture, taste, aroma and sound of its own. Easy to fall in love with her!

 The above is an excerpt from Pam Gary's forthcoming book of travel essays: Postcards Along the Way (Notes From a Scribbling Traveler)